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Update 2:

Week 2 continued the frenetic pace we set in the first week. On Sunday morning we headed south for Eilat. It is a four hour drive from Jerusalem (with lunch and bathroom stops along the way) along the eastern border of Israel . This time we did not stop at the Dead Sea , but instead traveled straight to an area near Kibbutz Yotvata. This Kibbutz is famous for its dairy and, much to our children's delight, chocolate milk. We stopped at the “store” for a quick refreshment and then made our way to the Hai Bar Nature Reserve, a wonderful open area that has been set aside in very much the same way as our Wild Animal Park in San Diego . The difference being that the animals are all indigenous to this area. The kids were delighted to see the animals up close, although Debbie discovered she had a strong dislike for ostriches.

After the Nature Reserve we headed to Eilat for some resort style luxury. We stayed in a hotel along the Lagoon and had fun wandering around the city. Monday we went to the Aquarium and Underwater Observatory, and then we all had a chance to jump into the Red Sea and swim with the fish. It was the first time snorkeling for the kids, and they were great! Eilat is the southern-most point in Israel and we made sure to make the drive south to the Taba Crossing and the border with Egypt (stop number one in making sure we see all of the borders).

For the trip back north to Jerusalem , Debbie worked her magic and got us a personal tour of Kibbutz Yotvata. One of the residents jumped into our car and drove with us for a “1 ½ hour tour” (which was really three hours) of the kibbutz and dairy. It was quite exciting. We got to see the whole process from fields to cows to milking to factory. They allowed us to pick our own onions from the field (which we used Friday afternoon for latkes), eat corn right off the stock, feed cows, meet a calf that was born that same day, and watch the process of making, yes, chocolate milk. That is what they happened to be making that day. It was really a wonderful picture of a classical kibbutz. They are still “collective” and still maintain many of the traditional kibbutz values. They also happen to be one of the richest kibbutzim in Israel .

Back in Jerusalem , we took the opportunity to revisit the Kotel and Old City . Once again, we walked through the Jaffa gate and into the Shuk. This time we did not immediately turn toward the Jewish Quarter, but instead headed deeper into the Christian Quarter and the Church of the Holy Sepulcher where Christians believe Jesus was killed and buried. It was great opportunity to talk with the kids about Christianity and the differences between the religions. Certainly they had never seen such opulence before. It is a beautiful church and well worth a visit.

Next we traveled to the City of David , the oldest part of Jerusalem . This is an active archeological site with ongoing digging and one of the most clear cut connections to the stories in the Tanakh. The walls and towers of the palace are quite visible as well as an incredible water system called Hezekiah's Tunnel which allowed for the inhabitants to bring water into the city from outside even while under siege. During the summer, it is possible to wade through the tunnel in knee-deep water, but now it is too cold and we chose the “dry” tunnel to exit.

The week came to a close with a trip to Tel Aviv on Thursday. We traveled up the coast of the Mediterranean Sea and then stopped for bite on Dizengoff, one of the main upscale shopping areas in the city. Next we visited the Palmach Museum . I strongly recommend for anyone visiting Israel to make sure they see this museum. It is an experiential museum explaining and elaborating on the time of the Palmach and Hagganah in the earliest days of the country. You need to make a reservation, but it is well worth it. After some more strolling in the city and dinner we made our way back to Jerusalem for another well needed Shabbat. Tomorrow, we head North for most of the week to travel around that part of the country. We will be using Haifa as our home base. That's it for now.

Wishing you all a Happy Hanukkah,
Rabbi David, Debbie, Michael and Rachel

Update 1:

Wow! A week has gone by in the Land of Israel and we still feel like we are reacquainting ourselves with an old friend. The difference is that this time we are sharing our love and experiences with Michael and Rachel. What an incredible thing to watch your children react and respond to Hebrew all around them, to see them realize that they can wear a kippah without feeling “different.” They have never been here, and yet there is a strong sense in both of them that it is home.

We have been incredibly busy these first few days. Our apartment in Jerusalem is right in the middle of the city and within walking distance to just about everywhere. And so we walk! In this short time we have already spent a day in the Old City walking through the Jewish Quarter, to the Kotel, into the Archeological Gardens at the Southern Wall, as well as through the Arab Shuk (safe now-a-days) and Armenean Quarter. We take almost daily trips into the New City for meals and just to stroll around. Friday morning was time to head into Mahane Yehuda, the open market, to buy groceries for Shabbat.

Since we have rented a car, travel outside of Jerusalem is much easier, although driving in the city is enough to make anyone pray. We have visited Mini Israel, a wonderful site that is similar to the mini buildings in Legoland. We were able to take a “tour” of what we would see before going out to see it, and it provided a wonderful context for the kids. Very near Mini Israel is the tank memorial and museum at Latrun. It was the first time we were able to have a real discussion with the kids about what military life is like here and what it means to go into the army. In the same general area is the Sorek Cave , an incredible stalactite cave that was found accidentally when blasting for building material. Of course, what the kids were most waiting for was a trip to the kosher McDonalds in Mevaseret, just outside of Jerusalem . Even Debbie and I wore a contented smile after a burger and fries.

We also took a day to head down to the Dead Sea and visit Masada . I am happy to report that all of us made the climb up to the top of Masada via the snake path (about a 1000ft climb). The kids were very proud of the accomplishment. Needless to say, we took the cable-car back down. Then we visited the Spa at Ein Gedi for some floating in the Dead Sea , Mineral Mud and Sulfur Baths. It was quite wonderful after the long trip up the mountain.

As Shabbat approached we began to prepare for our first Shabbat as a family in Jerusalem . There is nothing quite like it. The whole city begins to quiet down and the sirens sound for candle lighting. We are planning to visit a number of different Synagogues while we are here, the first was Shira Hadasha. It is an Orthodox shul that was set up near the Hartman Institute as a “halakhically egalitarian minyan,” quite an interesting experience. There was a mekhitza (curtain) separating the men and women, but instead of having the women in the back, they were sitting right there and participating in the service. Actually, the women's section was larger than the men's. The Shulhan and Ark were placed stragically in the middle of the curtain so everyone could see, and it was pulled back when we were not actually praying (during the d'var torah and announcements). Women participated as leaders in all of the parts of the service that they determined to be legally permissible. That meant that they could lead the introductory prayers, Torah service, as well as be called up to and read from the Torah. It was a wonderful first Shabbat morning, and quite unique. Next week our plan is to go to Kol Hanishama, a reform minyan in the same area.

That is the update, with much more to come. Tomorrow we leave for Eilat for a few days and will be back in Jerusalem on Wednesday evening. Until next week, shalom from Jerusalem .

Rabbi David, Debbie, Michael and Rachel.